5 Secrets to a Great Weave: Treat it Like Your Own Hair

1. Choose the Right Texture

Buying quality hair is absolutely essential, but it's not enough. Selecting a believable texture is critical. "Superstraight hair with nappy roots looks crazy," says celebrity stylist Porsche Waldo of Ebony Design in New York City (Faith Evans, Mya, JoJo). "I've coined the term 'Kunta meets Becky,' " says stylist Nelson Vercher of the Rita Hazan salon in New York City (Tamia, Phylicia Rashad, Britney Spears), who also wove our opening look. If the weave is bone straight and your visible hair is tightly coiled, or if the purchased hair looks like it would never have grown out of your scalp, it's wrong. Most important, the texture should be one that complements your complexion and features. It's not that you shouldn't rock straight styles; just choose hair that looks the way your own hair looks when straightened.

* Do show some scalp or your hairline so the look is more realistic. The weave and your hair should blend together beautifully. Buying human hair by the ounce, as opposed to in a pack, is the preference of top stylists. Eight to ten ounces of human hair can cost from $200 to $600.

2. Buy Human Hair

Most celebrity stylists say no to using synthetic hair. The consensus is that it looks like plastic. It also melts under heat, so forget about curling or straightening. "It just doesn't move like human hair," says Vercher. "Too many people are allergic to it," adds celeb stylist Yusef of Paul Labrecque Salon & Spa in New York City (Solange), who created the weaves on this page and the following two. But stylist to the stars Ursula Stephen (Rihanna, Keisha Cole) has a different point of view. "It really depends on what look you're going after. Sometimes synthetic hair can work, if you know how to flip it," she says. "I have some synthetic Afro-kinky hair that I put in often. I get tons of compliments when I wear it."

* Don't choose a weave that doesn't mesh with your lifestyle. If you work out a lot, try a texture and cut that needs little heat or manipulation.

3. Cut It Into Shape

What you do with your weave after it's in is just as crucial as choosing the right hair texture. Too much hair will look like a wig. "Every weave needs to be shaped according to head size and face shape," says Stephen. Yusef adds, "Razor-cut that weave; you've got to take some of the weight out of it." Natural, thinned ends are also much more believable than blunt, baby-doll ends. "If you don't have the weave shaped correctly, it won't fall naturally," says Vercher. Weavers who can cut are few and far between. Get your weave done by the best, then have it cut and thinned only by a stylist who's a whiz with the scissors.

* Do give your weave a full brush-through daily, in order to prevent tangling and matting.

* Don't flip your head upside down in the shower when washing your weave. This creates tangling.

4. Customize The Weft

Custom-blending the color and texture of each weft, also called a track, ensures a realistic weave. Top stylists swear by customized tracks, like the ones used to create every weave featured in this story. Since a variety of textures can make up a single head of hair, one secret to achieving a look that's close to what nature gave us is to blend wavy and curly or wavy and straight textures. Not only can the texture and color be varied, but the length as well. "By placing various lengths throughout the hair, I reduce bulk," says Vercher. "I still have to cut it, but I prefer to place shorter pieces on the top and longer ones on the bottom."

* Do try an alcohol-free mousse. Apply to wet hair before you blow-dry. This will hold the style in place without weighing the hair down.

5. Handle With Care

Treat your weave like you would your real hair. Don't be afraid of it. Wash it weekly and "Give it a good comb through, daily," says celebrity stylist Lawrence Davis (Tyra), who just won an Emmy for Outstanding Hair for The Tyra Banks Show. If you don't detangle daily, the hair sheds and gets tangled in the braid, causing unnecessary hair loss when you remove the track. Human hair wefts can last almost a year if you take care of them. Deep-condition like you would your own hair. Hot oil treatments and steam treatments maintain manageability. Also make sure your own hair dries properly after you wash and condition. If not, you could encourage mildew-not a healthy or pleasant-smelling scalp condition. Invest in a hooded dryer. Clip varying sections up so that the heat can get to your hair underneath. Once your hair is dry, style as usual.

* Don't forget your brows. Black brows and blond or red hair don't mix. Have your stylist lift your brow color to better coordinate with your hair color.

written by. Pamela Edwards for Essence.com

Secrets To Growing Black Hair

The key to growing black hair is not a secret... it's more so common sense. It takes patience and routine.

Here are the basics when wanting to grow long hair:

1. Less Heat
(or no heat, put the curling irons down, and wrap your hair more)

2. Less Chemicals
(completely loose the gels and spritz or only use in moderation)

3. Silk Scarf and Pillows (avoid your hair drying out, you must use silk scarves)

4. Nightly Moisturizing Routine
(it's important to moisturize your hair every night, so that your hair will be nurtured as you sleep)

5. Nutrients/Vitamins- Eating Healthy
(what you eat affects yours hair, eat alot foods with Vitamin E or consider a hair and nail vitamin)

6. No Stress
(stress is a big factor in hair loss, avoid stress and relax as much as possible, exercise is also a good way to combat stress. At the least try the Dr. Oz/Oprah daily deep-breathing exercises- simply close your eyes and slowly breath in and out, do about 3 sets of 10).

7. Water
(you MUST drink water... this is very important when on the quest for naturally long hair).

8. Weekly to bi-monthly shampoos and conditioning
(daily will dry out your hair and going for over a 2 weeks may cause your hair damage because of the dirt and chemicals in the air that will get in your hair).

Those are all the must- dos for everyone... no matter your hair texture. Now, you have to figure out what product is best for you- here's a LIST of the best products. Check out the list and make your decision. For some, finding the right product is trial and error and for others it will be easy. I would suggest finding out what hair products that people in your family with long hair use. I would also just ask around.

I must be honest and say that unfortunately your average african-american hairstylist is not going to particularly know what is the best product for you to use. I say that because many simply just use what they hear is the best products overall- and usually those are products that are designed for whites/european-americans. And others simply don't educate themselves (this is true for many average stylist in general-black or white), they worry more about the end result than the complete process.

I say all that to say don't particularly expect to receive the best advice, I suggest doing your own research and put thought into choosing products. If you still have no idea I would personally suggest starting with: patene pro-v relaxed and natural shampoos, mizani moisturizers, and dr.miracles foams and oils. But really you should check the products from this list out.


I must stress that this takes time- hair does NOT grow 5 inches over night... I know that you're anxious. But just relax- you may have to go through a few months with your hair in simple hairstyles (hanging down and pulled back), but its worth it if you want that long hair. The modern way to grow out your hair includes getting a weave.... I'll talk about that in the next article. And the less you think about your hair growing, the sooner you'll see the results. Meaning that you should set your mind on it, but don't stress over it- time flies! So you've been living with short hair for years, what's a few months... your hair will and CAN grow- you just have to take the necessary steps and make sure your hair is HEALTHY over all else... before you know it your barely shoulder length hair will be down your back:-)

Please share your tips to growing long hair...

UPDATE (6/21/2009):
It seems that african-american women with the strongest and longest hair- wash their hair every week. And many do it it twice a week... and some, even 3x a week (when they're 6 weeks post perm). Your hair must be clean to grow and it must be healthy.

More tips: Its important to deep condition- with a protein conditioner and a moisturizing conditioner. Switch between the two each week. Also a good leave-in conditioner is a must, as is air-drying your hair.